We've returned home to Chiang Mai

After a 13-hour travel day that started at 6 am in Vietnam, a country where we had been for a month, we now are feebly dragging our luggage back into our condo. I opened the fridge and found two bottled waters, a lone Singha beer and a container of vitamin D3 which we have had since Obama was president. We were hungry, exhausted, and didn’t have the energy to go out to a restaurant for dinner. So, I volunteered to grab a pizza for ‘take away’ as Diane ‘de-packed‘ after such a long trip. I walked a block then took a shortcut by sneaking thru Osaka Restaurant to get to Pizza My Heart. Upon opening the door, I was greeted with a joyful smile of Grace, a young Thai woman who works there. In English she said, “you’re back!” It is good to be remembered. I ordered a pizza for ‘take-away’ and a beer… she finished my sentence with “for here“. We shared a smile. I paid my bill, and was handed my frosty bottle of Singha beer, then headed outside to wait.

Conveniently, there is a swing set out in front of the restaurant. I just sat there, sipped my cold beer and grooved. Alone with my thoughts, I swung gently back and forth, pretty much keeping my feet on the same spot.  I am struggling to find the precise words to describe this moment. Words that come to mind are calm, content and even melodious. I feel at home. By the time I got to the end of my beer, my pizza in a box was handed to me. They had taped the baggie full of fresh arugula to the top of the box.  I got a ‘yay‘ from Diane when I returned. We watched local news (TNT) and chewed. We were dog tired. 

Bill on swing set waiting for pizza...

A Tale of Two Pizzas

This is a story of David vs Goliath. Prova Cafe and Pizza vs Pizza My Heart. In the original story Goliath was the bad guy, in this story, there is only good guys or gals. 

I do not know if these two pizza houses are typical of Chiang Mai. If so, we have landed in a SE Asia pizza haven.

As a traveler it’s comforting having a taste of home. A legit taste. A glass of something red, a chewy crust… and pepperoni. All is well.

Prova Cafe has comparably no online presence. It is located at the very south end of the Nimman neighborhood. The street is extremely busy with vehicle traffic, but the foot traffic is mostly people getting from A to B not necessarily looking for dinner.

Pizza My Heart is the Goliath. Winner three years in a row of Trip Advisor best pizza in Chiang Mai 2021-2023. It has the Trip Advisor sign strategically placed on the street to make sure you are well aware of this. It is located at ground zero of the trendy and young neighborhood of Nimman. Most nights, during the busy season, are very crowded.

Prova Cafe could be described as quaint and pleasant, with a very Italian flair. We have been there several times and never is there a worry of not getting a table. Though, never has it been empty. It just has a comfortable speed. We are immediately recognized. The staff is warm and welcoming. This is home. The dining area is small, thus you have eyes on everyone in the room. This was the first pizza place we went to when arriving in Chiang Mai in the fall of ’23. My initial reaction was of surprise that the pizzas were, as I described then as, real. It was obvious that it came out of a brick fire oven with legitimate Italian flavors.

Pizza My Heart is loud and vibrant, on the verge of being boastful. It has a large room with an upper level, where I prefer to perch. The brick fire oven is proudly displayed at the far end of the restaurant. A few times it was so busy we had to scan the room for a suitable open table and had to hail our server as she roamed the room like a hummingbird. If these restaurants were states in the US, PMH would be Texas and Prova Cafe would be Washington State. PMH has two powerhouse restaurant neighbors, one being Michelin recommended making it a go-to soi (street) to walk down for dinner

Repective Pizza Ovens at Prova and Pizza My Heart

Sissi, owner of Prova Cafe, fluent in her native Thai, then Italian and English.

When I am out and about having a bite, my judgment of the evening has to do with whom I’m eating with, what we are eating and the server, who I feel is our guide for the night. A good server can’t break the experience, but they can bring it to the highest highs. I’m picky. I want the server’s personality such that they could easily join us for dinner. I don’t want a customer/server relationship. I do not want to be called Sir nor do I want my server to be talking in standard rehearsed restaurant lingo. I want my niece or nephew helping us through a meal. From the first moment I try to set the tone. I’ll quickly open with a friendly statement. “We are hungry and thirsty, can you help?” or “Hey, we are happy to be here”, Something to kick down any semblance of ice. The professionals out there always understand what I’m asking for and they follow suit. 

With that being said, these two women are in a dead heat, a photo finish, in other words a tie. I see both of them as nieces and would probably co-sign on a business or student loan if asked. Shhhhhh…I’m such a softy.  

Grace, the one you want to be working the front end of your restaurant. 

What Prova does slightly better: Wine!

In Thailand wine is very expensive. Because of this, I will just order the ‘house red‘. Prova, at the same price, plainly has better wine. Along with that they seem to give a nicer pour. In wine jargon, that means ‘more’. A standard for wine is 5 ounces. This way you get exactly 5 glasses out of a bottle. 

At PMH the house red is always fine but not quite as good. Along with that, they use really weird wine glasses. I’m sure they look good on Instagram, but they are just not traditional. When it comes to wine, I’m traditional. It is hard to tell the size of pour with this glass. There is some illusion taking place in the similar manner of pouring an entire bottle into a decanter. How did it all fit?

What PMH does slightly better: Pasta.

Side by side the Penne ala Vodka is ever so slightly better than Prova’s ravioli.  Though I must admit EVERY time we go to Prova and have their ravioli I think the opposite

What I do like is the Canadian owner who always works the room with a smile. He and his wife do a bang-up job at a professional level. It is always warm and welcoming as you walk in.

Even as I edit this blog, I know I am cutting hairs. OMG both restaurants are excellent. I dare you to chew on a pizza crust (I call these pizza bones) and not be transported home. Try all the pastas at both restaurants and prove me wrong. Tonight, I walked down to Prova and got their Ravioli. I think one just can’t compare two heavenly pastas. I got nuttin’. 

So, who is the winner in this pizza contest? Well, clearly the winner is YOU, if you go to either pizzeria. Both restaurants absolutely make excellent pizzas, have great staff, and I guarantee you will enjoy yourself. Geez, Bill! How often do you two go out for pizza? Well, I’ll answer that with a question. Is this something one needs to quantify and judge?  🙂

Every Hat has its Day

When you try on a new hat at your local millinery there are certain steps you must complete.  First, you check with the mirror, then check with Diane, then confidently you walk up to the sales staff and ask, “Does this hat make me look like George Clooney?” Needless to say their answer, accompanied by giggling, made the sale.

Honestly, it’s hard to tell us apart. 

I’m working off the assumption they know who George Clooney is. At the end of my inquiry, they both busted up laughing which I took for a good sign. I’m very optimistic with these kinds of interactions with the local youth. I will use this methodology for all my future purchases of clothing.

Heat and Air Quality: It really doesn't bother us... that much ?

This is the view from our 7th floor condo. Every morning, I sit out on our deck and have my fresh fruit, peanut butter toast, and coffee. I typically face the other way which has a view of Doi Suthep which is a 5500-foot mountain to the west. But not today. You cannot see it because of the smoke.

It is April and the high temperatures are in the triple digits every day.  Add to that heat, every March and April the agricultural burning takes place. This prepares the land for the next crop cycle. It’s cheap, efficient, and has been done this way for 10,000 years. It is a tradition difficult to change. The air pollution in Chaing Mai gets lots of headlines. But it is hard to dictate to farmers, locally and in adjacent countries, to farm in a more expensive way. We walked to the mall which took 15 minutes in 104-degree heat. Also, today the air quality in Chiang Mai was the worst in the world at an AQI (air quality index) of 226 which is in the ‘very unhealthy’ range. Did all of this bother us? Not really, though not great. Was I happy to get to the air-conditioned mall after a 400-meter walk. Hecks yeah. 

I would not plan a trip to northern Thailand during these two months. It will quickly change at the end of April. The rains come and clear the air and cool things down by 10 or 15 degrees. From what I understand, the rainy season just means blue sky in the morning, then a heavy shower on several evenings. We will find out soon enough. And more good news starting in August the highs will hover in the mid to upper 80s which is the sweet spot until next March. Yes, 8 months of idyllic weather. Nice!

As I type these notes were are both getting a little hungry. At 6 pm I checked the temp outside and it is 100. By sunset at 6:25 it has fallen to 98. I’ll wait ’til 95 degrees to walk for food. The request from the queen was for chicken fried rice, crispy pork with awesome dipping sauce, and mixed veggies. The plan for tonight is to finish up the second half of a Korean movie called Alienoid with dinner, then watch the local news and call it a day. It was a good one. 

Final thoughts:

     Signs we are becoming “residents”:

In theory, when we received our ‘Type-O’ visas we technically became residents. Then add to that signing a one-year lease on a condo, residency has been cast in stone. 

Though, I feel there are small things that make me feel like a resident of Chiang Mai. We paid the first electric bill. One does this at the local 7-11. Yep, walk in, hand your bill over to the person behind the counter and give them the money. Simple as that. I also have paid a restaurant tab using an app on my phone which reads a QR code. It is tied to my Thai bank account. Most locals use this and it’s a rarity I see a foreigner doing this. I also started carrying dry cat food in a resealable baggie around with me. I had my first ‘customer’ a couple of days ago. Hmmmm I see you may have a question about that. How can you always have cat food on you? I have taken to always have my ‘murse’ with me (man-purse, satchel). I can’t do without it now. I have gained a lot of respect for women and all the issues I’ve heard for decades. It is true. Everything does go to the bottom. Also, I can never find what I’m looking for. But I do have a comfortable feeling that if I need ‘something’ I have it with me. So, cheers ladies, I get it. 

Kitty looking up from his treat from Uncle Bill

Thank you so much for reading!!!  

Addendum:

I am going to revise something I implied earlier. On our daily morning walk something, quite literally, was in the air. Or should I say, not in the air. Last night the weather pattern changed up a bit. The wind spoke for the first time in weeks along with the sky remembering how to dispense a cooling rain. We stood on the deck and listened to the booming thunder as we felt intermittent rain drops hit our forearms as we leaned on the railing of our 7th floor condo. 

Now, this morning was a horse of a different color. The air was crisp with a hint of last night’s rain. The fresh air encouraged us to take an even longer walk than normal through our neighborhood. After the walk, like I do every morning, I took my coffee, toast, and fruit out on the deck. I could finally see Doi Suthep Mountain, the air was clean, and I stayed out there an extra few minutes. 

I liken all this to Seattle’s ‘Big Dark’. For two months every winter you don’t see the sun. It’s dark when you get drive to work and dark as you drive home from work. For 16 hours, each day is dark, dark, dark! Add to this rain, occasional snow, and freezing temperatures, life seems miserable. But we take it because we know what’s coming. ‘Living in Seattle is like being married to a beautiful woman who is sick all the time.’ 

It is much the same here in the north. (As I typed ‘north’ I could not help but compare Chiang Mai and Winterfell in my mind, a Game of Thrones reference, which I’ll expand upon in a future post.) The extra heat and smoke is tolerated like the ‘Big Dark’ is tolerated back in Seattle. Because of my happy disposition I tend not to dwell in the negative. Though I gots to tell yaz, when this all reverts back to the weather of Oz, it will be a relief. 

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Bill and Diane: Retirement Year ... Two